OOTP Baseball:Customizing OOTP/Creating Custom Skyboxes: Difference between revisions

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'''1.''' '''Locating Skybox imagery online (easiest?)'''
1. Locating Skybox imagery online (easiest?)


A. It's quick and easy and involves no 'real work'. Finding images suitable for skyboxing is easy. Google for '360 panorama' and you'll find more than a few sites with a copious supply of HDRI files. That's one basic term used for a 360° panoramic image that you can use for a skybox. Some of these sites even allow the images for non- commercial use. That's how I started out. First warning: DON'T get one of those cross shaped images. They work great if you're willing to master 3d programs...but they won't work at all with these methods.
A. It's quick and easy and involves no 'real work'.


What I've learned, because that's where I got my first images, is that many of the 'free' images are not the highest resolution. They're OK for practicing with, but I strongly urge you to not settle for less than 10,000x5,000 pixel images. Accept nothing less than 8,000x4,000 for finish work. By the way, it is ESSENTIAL that your image maintain the 2:1 ratio.[[File:GPTempDownload 7.jpg|thumb|Sample HDRI file]]
Finding images suitable for skyboxing is easy.


Most HDRI files look something like this. Don't worry about the visual distortion, it's necessary. Another thing I've learned is that none of these people had stadium backdrops in their mind when photographing (duh?). As a result, you'll run into one of the biggest issues I did—scale. Now, if you don't care that the birch sapling in the picture is suddenly taller than Dodger Stadium's back wall, or that the Yugo looks like it could seat Godzilla with ample headroom, no problem.
Google for '360 panorama' and you'll find more


The other issue with the substance of the images is of course, you're at the provider's mercy for the nature of the photo. You can't yet go out and search for 'suburban Milwaukee business area' and get an acceptable result. NOT...GONNA...HAPPEN.
than a few sites with a copious supply of '''HDRI'''


B. There are copyright issues...tread lightly and be wise. Some of these folk are perfectly OK with non-commercial use of their work. Some aren't. You want free? Be cautious. The last thing any of us want is a cease-and-desist letter...or worse a civil suit.
'''files'''. That's one basic term used for a 360°


C. '''<u>Make SURE they're in JPG format!!!</u>''' Go forth and download... ... ... Got your images downloaded? Ready to create your skybox? Oh, you thought you weren't going to have to get your fingers dirty? Guess again. Here's your shopping list...mostly platform dependent:
panoramic image that you can use for a skybox.


'''3.''' '''''<big><u>Total cost of software: $0</u></big>'''''
Some of these sites even allow the images for non-


'''All platforms:''' grab a copy of Source Skybox Converter at http://www.victorkarp.com It's free, and works very well in blender 2.79
commercial use. That's how I started out.


'''Windows users:''' There's a great, free program called [https://cubethesphere.software.informer.com/1.0/ CubeTheSphere]. It's light on documentation, but pretty simple to use. If you're more technically minded, grab a copy of blender 2.79b—it's free. DON'T use any version beyond that for this purpose...not because it's bad software, but because it won't work with the tools I utilize. You'll also need an program to convert jpg images to webp images. Windows users...suggeest one in the comments please.
First warning: DON'T get one of those cross


'''Mac Users:''' If you run a Windows emulator (I use Virtual Box and Windows 10 for those few nettlesome things you can't find on a Mac, you can follow the Windows instructions. The easier way in my opinion...download blender 2,79b (see the caveat in the Windows section) and a program called Webponize. Both are free.
shaped images. They work great if you're willing


'''Linux users:''' I'm sorry, I don't know enough about Linux to offer intelligent advice. If the blender method doesn't work for you, you're on your own.
to master 3d programs...but they won't work at


'''4. Creating your own from scratch (BEST WAY)'''
all with these methods.


A. You don't need an expensive 3d camera. I'm sure they're quite nice, but if you're like me, and don't have a pile of cash laying about to throw down on a decent 3d camera, there's a better way. You see, most of those 3d cameras at the lower/ middle range will only net you an 8,000x4,000 image...the bare minimum acceptable as far as I'm concerned. My iPhone can wallop that...11,264x5632. I'm betting Android users with higher end phones can at least match that. You need an iPhone...or Android phone, and probably have one anyway. Yes, by the way, I'm an Apple guy...deal with it.[[File:Output 15.jpg|thumb]]
What I've learned, because that's where I got my


I'd strongly recommend a solid tripod. You can take these pictures by hand, but you need to be extremely steady to avoid images with a broken horizon. Zoom the pic above to see what I mean. I use the [https://www.amazon.com/gp/&#x20;product/B07DC48V5H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?&#x20;ie=UTF8&psc=1 Geekoto]. It's $79.99 and a very versatile and sturdy product. You'll find lots of non-sky box times to use this as well. I'd also recommend a nice phone mount to go with that. Mine is found [https://www.bestbuy.com/site/joby-griptight-mount-&#x20;pro-holder-for-smartphone/5120800.p?skuId=5120800 here] at the Amazon Showroom Store, I mean Best Buy. The Joby is great and runs about $30.
first images, is that many of the 'free' images are


Neither of these is essential, but makes life much more comfortable and will eliminate many problems.
not the highest resolution. They're OK for


B. Software needed is cheaper than you'd believe. Go to your App Store and download a copy of Google Street View (henceforth GSV). DON'T accept the option to be a local guide, because you give Google ownership of your images at that point. They make enough money as it is. It's...FREE!!! GSV allows you to take your own 360° panoramic images on your phone. Each one requires a series of 40-some photos that get stitched together by the software. It sounds daunting. It isn't.
practicing with, but I strongly urge you to not


Transfer the pictures from your phone to your computer. GSV names all the files as 'output' plus a number .jpg, at least on the iPhone. Good photography practices are a help as well. Level your horizons, rule of thirds, blah-blah-blah. As I've discovered, scaling stadiums to your image is not viable, so it's best to scale your image to the model. Try to choose large, open areas. Absolutely avoid fences or wires if you can. Regular, repeating patterns in the images tend to screw up the stitching process and you get all sorts of odd distortions in your imagery. Guard rails are another problem causer, as are telephone/ electric lines. Often, the lines don't harm the rest of your image...but fences and guardrails are a disaster zone. Water is problematic as well.[[File:Old 76 & South Branch.jpg|thumb|Broken guard rail effect]]
settle for less than 10,000x5,000 pixel images.


Guard rails and fences often end up like this. Try to avoid having recognizable faces or license plates in your images—people don't like being 'made famous'. GSV can blur them for you. Water will cause glitches in your horizons, especially if the waves are moving at a good clip. Darkness is certain to result in a grainier picture...that's not Google's fault, just a limitation of phone photography. Maybe some clever photoshop guru can give us day to night tips?
Accept nothing less than 8,000x4,000 for finish


'''5. Making the actual skybox in Windows'''
work. By the way, it is ESSENTIAL that your
 
image maintain the 2:1 ratio.
[[File:GPTempDownload 7.jpg|thumb|Sample HDRI file]]
 
 
 
Most HDRI files look something like this.
 
Don't worry about the visual distortion, it's necessary.
 
Another thing I've learned is that none of these
 
people had stadium backdrops in their mind when
 
photographing (duh?). As a result, you'll run into
 
one of the biggest issues I did—scale. Now, if you
 
don't care that the birch sapling in the picture is
 
suddenly taller than Dodger Stadium's back wall,
 
or that the Yugo looks like it could seat Godzilla
 
with ample headroom, no problem.
 
The other issue with the substance of the images
 
is of course, you're at the provider's mercy for the
 
nature of the photo. You can't yet go out and
 
search for 'suburban Milwaukee business area'
 
and get an acceptable result.
 
NOT...GONNA...HAPPEN.
 
B. There are copyright issues...tread lightly and
 
be wise. Some of these folk are perfectly OK with
 
non-commercial use of their work. Some aren't.
 
You want free? Be cautious. The last thing any of
 
us want is a cease-and-desist letter...or worse a
 
civil suit.
 
C. '''<u>Make SURE they're in JPG format!!!</u>''' Go forth
 
and download... ... ... Got your images
 
downloaded? Ready to create your skybox? Oh,
 
you thought you weren't going to have to get
 
your fingers dirty? Guess again. Here's your
 
shopping list...mostly platform dependent:
 
3. '''''<big><u>Total cost of software: $0</u></big>'''''
 
'''All platforms:''' grab a copy of Source Skybox
 
Converter at <nowiki>http://www.victorkarp.com</nowiki> It's
 
free, and works very well in blender 2.79
 
'''Windows users:''' There's a great, free program
 
called CubeTheSphere. It's light on
 
documentation, but pretty simple to use. If
 
you're more technically minded, grab a copy
 
of blender 2.79b—it's free. DON'T use any
 
version beyond that for this purpose...not
 
because it's bad software, but because it
 
won't work with the tools I utilize. You'll
 
also need an program to convert jpg images
 
to webp images. Windows users...suggeest
 
one in the comments please.
 
'''Mac Users:''' If you run a Windows emulator (I use
 
Virtual Box and Windows 10 for
 
those few nettlesome things you can't find on
 
a Mac, you can follow the Windows
 
instructions. The easier way in my
 
opinion...download blender 2,79b (see the
 
caveat in the Windows section) and a
 
program called Webponize. Both are free.
 
'''Linux users:''' I'm sorry, I don't know enough about
 
Linux to offer intelligent advice. If the
 
blender method doesn't work for you, you're
 
on your own.
 
4. Creating your own from scratch (BEST WAY)
 
A. You don't need an expensive 3d camera. I'm
 
sure they're quite nice, but if you're like me, and
 
don't have a pile of cash laying about to throw
 
down on a decent 3d camera, there's a better way.
 
You see, most of those 3d cameras at the lower/
 
middle range will only net you an 8,000x4,000
 
image...the bare minimum acceptable as far as I'm
 
concerned. My iPhone can wallop
 
that...11,264x5632. I'm betting Android users with
 
higher end phones can at least match that.
 
You need an iPhone...or Android phone, and
 
probably have one anyway. Yes, by the way, I'm an
 
Apple guy...deal with it.
[[File:Output 15.jpg|thumb]]
 
 
I'd strongly recommend a solid tripod. You can
 
take these pictures by hand, but you need to be
 
extremely steady to avoid images with a '''broken'''
 
'''horizon'''. Zoom the pic above to see what I mean.
 
I use the Geekoto (<nowiki>https://www.amazon.com/gp/</nowiki>
 
product/B07DC48V5H/
 
ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?
 
ie=UTF8&psc=1. It's $79.99 and a very versatile
 
and sturdy product. You'll find lots of non-sky
 
box times to use this as well.
 
I'd also recommend a nice phone mount to go with
 
that. Mine is found here at the Amazon
 
Showroom Store, I mean Best Buy: https://
 
www.bestbuy.com/site/joby-griptight-mount-
 
pro-holder-for-smartphone/5120800.p?
 
skuId=5120800. The Joby is great and runs
 
about $30.
 
Neither of these is essential, but makes life much
 
more comfortable and will eliminate many
 
problems.
 
B. Software needed is cheaper than you'd believe.
 
Go to your App Store and download a copy of
 
Google Street View (henceforth GSV). DON'T accept
 
the option to be a local guide, because you give
 
Google ownership of your images at that point.
 
They make enough money as it is. It's...FREE!!!
 
GSV allows you to take your own 360° panoramic
 
images on your phone. Each one requires a series
 
of 40-some photos that get stitched together by
 
the software. It sounds daunting. It isn't.
 
 
Transfer the pictures from your phone to your
 
computer. GSV names all the files as 'output'
 
plus a number .jpg, at least on the iPhone.
 
Good photography practices are a help as well.
 
Level your horizons, rule of thirds, blah-blah-blah.
 
As I've discovered, scaling stadiums to your image
 
is not viable, so it's best to scale your image to
 
the model. Try to choose large, open areas.
 
Absolutely avoid fences or wires if you can.
 
Regular, repeating patterns in the images tend to
 
screw up the stitching process and you get all
 
sorts of odd distortions in your imagery. Guard
 
rails are another problem causer, as are telephone/
 
electric lines. Often, the lines don't harm the rest
 
of your image...but fences and guardrails are a
 
disaster zone. Water is problematic as well.
[[File:Old 76 & South Branch.jpg|thumb|Broken guard rail effect]]
 
 
Guard rails and fences often end up like this.
 
Try to avoid having recognizable faces or license
 
plates in your images—people don't like being
 
'made famous'. GSV can blur them for you.
 
Water will cause glitches in your horizons,
 
especially if the waves are moving at a good clip.
 
Darkness is certain to result in a grainier
 
picture...that's not Google's fault, just a
 
limitation of phone photography. Maybe some
 
clever photoshop guru can give us day to night
 
tips?
 
5. Making the actual skybox in Windows


A. Process
A. Process
Line 43: Line 307:
1. With cube the sphere
1. With cube the sphere


# Open your image.
a. Open your image.
# The menus are pretty self explanatory.
 
b. The menus are pretty self explanatory.


2. With blender
2. With blender


Read the Mac description below. So far as I know, blender works the same in both platforms.
Read the Mac description below. So far as I
 
know, blender works the same in both


'''6. Making the actual skybox in Mac'''
platforms.
 
6. Making the actual skybox in Mac


A. Process
A. Process


# Open Source Skybox Converter. You should see this:
1. Open Source Skybox Converter. You
# Use the Open button in the orange box to import your HDRI image. You should see this when your image is opened.
 
# Use the Z button in the green box to adjust the rotation of your image. The leftmost panel ends up approximately from CF towards 1b, the rightmost from CF to 3b. The primary seam in your skybox, and the place to pay most attention to therefor, is the seam over CF. If it looks OK there, you can hide your mistakes behind the stadium...nobody's going to look there.
should see this:
# Adjust the origin of your lighting (the sun?) in the box pointed at here.
 
# Use the red box to control the strength of your lighting. Sometimes, brightening a picture, or dimming it, can dramatically improve your look. Be careful not to over or under expose your picture.
2. Use the Open button in the orange box to
# Set your dimensions in the leftmost box. X and Y MUST be the same, or very bad things happen to your image in the end.
 
# Choose your image format. JPG is the best choice, and set your image quality to 100%. You can also choose your destination folder in this region.
import your HDRI image. You should see
# See that button labelled 'Animation' in the next box to the right? Click it. You'll see 6 images flash (depending on the speed of your computer) rapidly across the screen. The dirty work? It's done.
 
# Open your output folder, and you should see 6 images labelled skybox0000.jpg to skybox0005.jpg. Rename the images as follows
this when your image is opened.
#* skybox0000.jpg becomes xn.jpg
 
#* skybox0001.jpg becomes zp.jpg
3. Use the Z button in the green box to
#* skybox0002.jpg becomes xp.jpg
 
#* skybox0003.jpg becomes zn.jpg
adjust the rotation of your image. The
#* skybox0004.jpg becomes yp.jpg
 
#* skybox0005.jpg becomes yn.jpg
leftmost panel ends up approximately
# Use Webponize or the program of your choice to convert the jpg's into webp image files. You can delete or archive the 6 created jpg's at this point.
 
from CF towards 1b, the rightmost from


'''7. Using the box in OOTP'''
CF to 3b. The primary seam in your
 
skybox, and the place to pay most
 
attention to therefor, is the seam over CF.
 
If it looks OK there, you can hide your
 
mistakes behind the stadium...nobody's
 
going to look there.
 
4. Adjust the origin of your lighting (the
 
sun?) in the box pointed at here.
 
5. Use the red box to control the strength of
 
your lighting. Sometimes, brightening a
 
picture, or dimming it, can dramatically
 
improve your look. Be careful not to over or
 
under expose your picture.
 
6. Set your dimensions in the leftmost box.
 
X and Y MUST be the same, or very bad things
 
happen to your image in the end.
 
7. Choose your image format. JPG is the best
 
choice, and set your image quality to 100%.
 
You can also choose your destination folder
 
in this region.
 
8. See that button labelled 'Animation' in
 
the next box to the right? Click it. You'll see
 
6 images flash (depending on the speed of
 
your computer) rapidly across the screen. The
 
dirty work? It's done.
 
9. Open your output folder, and you should
 
see 6 images labelled skybox0000.jpg to
 
skybox0005.jpg. Rename the images as
 
follows:
 
a. skybox0000.jpg becomes xn.jpg
 
b. skybox0001.jpg becomes zp.jpg
 
c. skybox0002.jpg becomes xp.jpg
 
d. skybox0003.jpg becomes zn.jpg
 
e. skybox0004.jpg becomes yp.jpg
 
f. skybox0005.jpg becomes yn.jpg
 
10. Use Webponize or the program of your
 
choice to convert the jpg's into webp image
 
files. You can delete or archive the 6 created
 
jpg's at this point.
 
11.
 
7. Using the box in OOTP


A. Other's models
A. Other's models


# Drop the sky_box_day and sky_box_night folders into your stadium model's folder.
1. Drop the sky_box_day and
# Go back to OOTP and reload your model. If all is well, your skybox will be present. Verify day and night
 
# If your 3d model has a background image, as many do, you'll need to load the model into your favorite 3d program and eliminate said background if you don't like the combination of skybox and background. Alternatively, you can erase the image from inside the .png file and save it as an empty shell.
sky_box_night folders into your stadium
 
model's folder.
 
2. Go back to OOTP and reload your model.
 
If all is well, your skybox will be present.
 
Verify day and night.
 
3. If your 3d model has a background
 
image, as many do, you'll need to load the
 
model into your favorite 3d program and
 
eliminate said background if you don't like
 
the combination of skybox and background. Alternatively, you can erase the image from inside the .png file and save it as an empty shell.


Congratulations...you're done!
Congratulations...you're done!

Revision as of 18:00, 28 July 2024

1. Locating Skybox imagery online (easiest?)

A. It's quick and easy and involves no 'real work'.

Finding images suitable for skyboxing is easy.

Google for '360 panorama' and you'll find more

than a few sites with a copious supply of HDRI

files. That's one basic term used for a 360°

panoramic image that you can use for a skybox.

Some of these sites even allow the images for non-

commercial use. That's how I started out.

First warning: DON'T get one of those cross

shaped images. They work great if you're willing

to master 3d programs...but they won't work at

all with these methods.

What I've learned, because that's where I got my

first images, is that many of the 'free' images are

not the highest resolution. They're OK for

practicing with, but I strongly urge you to not

settle for less than 10,000x5,000 pixel images.

Accept nothing less than 8,000x4,000 for finish

work. By the way, it is ESSENTIAL that your

image maintain the 2:1 ratio.

Sample HDRI file


Most HDRI files look something like this.

Don't worry about the visual distortion, it's necessary.

Another thing I've learned is that none of these

people had stadium backdrops in their mind when

photographing (duh?). As a result, you'll run into

one of the biggest issues I did—scale. Now, if you

don't care that the birch sapling in the picture is

suddenly taller than Dodger Stadium's back wall,

or that the Yugo looks like it could seat Godzilla

with ample headroom, no problem.

The other issue with the substance of the images

is of course, you're at the provider's mercy for the

nature of the photo. You can't yet go out and

search for 'suburban Milwaukee business area'

and get an acceptable result.

NOT...GONNA...HAPPEN.

B. There are copyright issues...tread lightly and

be wise. Some of these folk are perfectly OK with

non-commercial use of their work. Some aren't.

You want free? Be cautious. The last thing any of

us want is a cease-and-desist letter...or worse a

civil suit.

C. Make SURE they're in JPG format!!! Go forth

and download... ... ... Got your images

downloaded? Ready to create your skybox? Oh,

you thought you weren't going to have to get

your fingers dirty? Guess again. Here's your

shopping list...mostly platform dependent:

3. Total cost of software: $0

All platforms: grab a copy of Source Skybox

Converter at http://www.victorkarp.com It's

free, and works very well in blender 2.79

Windows users: There's a great, free program

called CubeTheSphere. It's light on

documentation, but pretty simple to use. If

you're more technically minded, grab a copy

of blender 2.79b—it's free. DON'T use any

version beyond that for this purpose...not

because it's bad software, but because it

won't work with the tools I utilize. You'll

also need an program to convert jpg images

to webp images. Windows users...suggeest

one in the comments please.

Mac Users: If you run a Windows emulator (I use

Virtual Box and Windows 10 for

those few nettlesome things you can't find on

a Mac, you can follow the Windows

instructions. The easier way in my

opinion...download blender 2,79b (see the

caveat in the Windows section) and a

program called Webponize. Both are free.

Linux users: I'm sorry, I don't know enough about

Linux to offer intelligent advice. If the

blender method doesn't work for you, you're

on your own.

4. Creating your own from scratch (BEST WAY)

A. You don't need an expensive 3d camera. I'm

sure they're quite nice, but if you're like me, and

don't have a pile of cash laying about to throw

down on a decent 3d camera, there's a better way.

You see, most of those 3d cameras at the lower/

middle range will only net you an 8,000x4,000

image...the bare minimum acceptable as far as I'm

concerned. My iPhone can wallop

that...11,264x5632. I'm betting Android users with

higher end phones can at least match that.

You need an iPhone...or Android phone, and

probably have one anyway. Yes, by the way, I'm an

Apple guy...deal with it.


I'd strongly recommend a solid tripod. You can

take these pictures by hand, but you need to be

extremely steady to avoid images with a broken

horizon. Zoom the pic above to see what I mean.

I use the Geekoto (https://www.amazon.com/gp/

product/B07DC48V5H/

ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?

ie=UTF8&psc=1. It's $79.99 and a very versatile

and sturdy product. You'll find lots of non-sky

box times to use this as well.

I'd also recommend a nice phone mount to go with

that. Mine is found here at the Amazon

Showroom Store, I mean Best Buy: https://

www.bestbuy.com/site/joby-griptight-mount-

pro-holder-for-smartphone/5120800.p?

skuId=5120800. The Joby is great and runs

about $30.

Neither of these is essential, but makes life much

more comfortable and will eliminate many

problems.

B. Software needed is cheaper than you'd believe.

Go to your App Store and download a copy of

Google Street View (henceforth GSV). DON'T accept

the option to be a local guide, because you give

Google ownership of your images at that point.

They make enough money as it is. It's...FREE!!!

GSV allows you to take your own 360° panoramic

images on your phone. Each one requires a series

of 40-some photos that get stitched together by

the software. It sounds daunting. It isn't.


Transfer the pictures from your phone to your

computer. GSV names all the files as 'output'

plus a number .jpg, at least on the iPhone.

Good photography practices are a help as well.

Level your horizons, rule of thirds, blah-blah-blah.

As I've discovered, scaling stadiums to your image

is not viable, so it's best to scale your image to

the model. Try to choose large, open areas.

Absolutely avoid fences or wires if you can.

Regular, repeating patterns in the images tend to

screw up the stitching process and you get all

sorts of odd distortions in your imagery. Guard

rails are another problem causer, as are telephone/

electric lines. Often, the lines don't harm the rest

of your image...but fences and guardrails are a

disaster zone. Water is problematic as well.

Broken guard rail effect


Guard rails and fences often end up like this.

Try to avoid having recognizable faces or license

plates in your images—people don't like being

'made famous'. GSV can blur them for you.

Water will cause glitches in your horizons,

especially if the waves are moving at a good clip.

Darkness is certain to result in a grainier

picture...that's not Google's fault, just a

limitation of phone photography. Maybe some

clever photoshop guru can give us day to night

tips?

5. Making the actual skybox in Windows

A. Process

1. With cube the sphere

a. Open your image.

b. The menus are pretty self explanatory.

2. With blender

Read the Mac description below. So far as I

know, blender works the same in both

platforms.

6. Making the actual skybox in Mac

A. Process

1. Open Source Skybox Converter. You

should see this:

2. Use the Open button in the orange box to

import your HDRI image. You should see

this when your image is opened.

3. Use the Z button in the green box to

adjust the rotation of your image. The

leftmost panel ends up approximately

from CF towards 1b, the rightmost from

CF to 3b. The primary seam in your

skybox, and the place to pay most

attention to therefor, is the seam over CF.

If it looks OK there, you can hide your

mistakes behind the stadium...nobody's

going to look there.

4. Adjust the origin of your lighting (the

sun?) in the box pointed at here.

5. Use the red box to control the strength of

your lighting. Sometimes, brightening a

picture, or dimming it, can dramatically

improve your look. Be careful not to over or

under expose your picture.

6. Set your dimensions in the leftmost box.

X and Y MUST be the same, or very bad things

happen to your image in the end.

7. Choose your image format. JPG is the best

choice, and set your image quality to 100%.

You can also choose your destination folder

in this region.

8. See that button labelled 'Animation' in

the next box to the right? Click it. You'll see

6 images flash (depending on the speed of

your computer) rapidly across the screen. The

dirty work? It's done.

9. Open your output folder, and you should

see 6 images labelled skybox0000.jpg to

skybox0005.jpg. Rename the images as

follows:

a. skybox0000.jpg becomes xn.jpg

b. skybox0001.jpg becomes zp.jpg

c. skybox0002.jpg becomes xp.jpg

d. skybox0003.jpg becomes zn.jpg

e. skybox0004.jpg becomes yp.jpg

f. skybox0005.jpg becomes yn.jpg

10. Use Webponize or the program of your

choice to convert the jpg's into webp image

files. You can delete or archive the 6 created

jpg's at this point.

11.

7. Using the box in OOTP

A. Other's models

1. Drop the sky_box_day and

sky_box_night folders into your stadium

model's folder.

2. Go back to OOTP and reload your model.

If all is well, your skybox will be present.

Verify day and night.

3. If your 3d model has a background

image, as many do, you'll need to load the

model into your favorite 3d program and

eliminate said background if you don't like

the combination of skybox and background. Alternatively, you can erase the image from inside the .png file and save it as an empty shell.

Congratulations...you're done!